Understanding the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a leading certification for organic textiles, ensuring that products meet stringent environmental and social criteria throughout the entire supply chain. This blog post delves into the history, criteria, benefits, and comparisons of GOTS with other certifications, providing a comprehensive overview for consumers seeking sustainable and ethical textile products.

What is GOTS?

GOTS was introduced in 2006 by leading standard setters from the USA, Germany, the UK, and Japan. The aim was to harmonize various standards and create a unified global standard for organic textiles, ensuring consistency and reliability. GOTS defines globally recognized requirements for organic textiles, from the harvesting of raw materials to environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing and labeling.

Ecological Criteria

GOTS sets rigorous ecological criteria to ensure environmentally responsible textile production:

1. Organic Fibers: Products must contain at least 70% certified organic fibers, with two label grades: “organic” (minimum 95% organic fibers) and “made with organic materials” (minimum 70% organic fibers).
2. Chemical Inputs: Only GOTS-approved colorants and auxiliaries can be used, with a prohibition on toxic inputs such as heavy metals and formaldehyde.
3. Environmental Management: Processing units must have an environmental management system, including wastewater treatment, and must separate organic and conventional fibers.
4. Technical Quality: Requirements for color fastness and shrinkage for finished goods.
5. Restrictions on Accessories: Limitations on the use of accessories that may contain harmful substances.
6. Evaluation of Chemical Inputs: Chemical inputs must be evaluated for toxicity and biodegradability.

Social Criteria

GOTS also includes comprehensive social criteria to ensure fair and ethical treatment of workers:

1. Employment is Freely Chosen: No forced, bonded, or involuntary prison labor.
2. Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining: Workers have the right to form and join trade unions and bargain collectively.
3. Child Labor Shall Not Be Used: Strict prohibition of child labor, with adherence to ILO standards.
4. No Discrimination: Equal opportunities and treatment for all workers.
5. Occupational Health and Safety (OHS): Safe and hygienic working conditions must be provided.
6. No Harassment and Violence: Workers must be treated with respect and dignity.
7. Remuneration: Wages must meet or exceed legal minimums and be sufficient to meet basic needs and provide some discretionary income.
8. Working Time: Compliance with applicable laws and industry standards on working hours, including overtime.
9. No Precarious Employment: Employment relationships must be legally recognized and protected.
10. Migrant Workers: Special protections for migrant workers to ensure they are treated fairly and ethically.

Trustworthiness and Controversies

GOTS is widely regarded as a trustworthy standard due to its rigorous criteria and independent certification process. However, there have been occasional controversies, such as the suspension of certain certification bodies for non-compliance. GOTS has a transparent complaints procedure to address any issues.

Benefits of Buying GOTS-Certified Products

Environmental Benefits:

• Reduced chemical use.
• Sustainable farming practices.
• Effective waste management.

Social Benefits:

• Fair labor practices.
• Safe working conditions.

Consumer Benefits:

• Healthier products free from toxic residues.
• Transparency and trust in the supply chain.
• High-quality, durable products.

Market and Community Impact:

• Supporting ethical brands.
• Positive environmental impact.

Finding GOTS-Certified Products

To find GOTS-certified products, look for the GOTS logo on the product, use the GOTS Certified Suppliers Database, check retail shops specializing in GOTS products, visit product websites, or ask for the GOTS Scope Certificate from suppliers.

Notable Case Studies

Saitex: A denim manufacturer in Vietnam known for its sustainable practices, including water recycling, green energy use, waste management, and community empowerment.

Rajlakshmi Cotton Mills: An Indian factory known for its sustainable practices and fair labor conditions.

Naturepedic: A U.S.-based manufacturer of organic mattresses adhering to GOTS standards.

Comparing GOTS to Other Certifications

GOTS vs. OEKO-TEX Standard 100:

• GOTS emphasizes organic materials and sustainable processing, while OEKO-TEX focuses on testing for harmful substances.

GOTS vs. Better Cotton Initiative (BCI):

• GOTS requires organic certification and comprehensive criteria, while BCI allows some pesticides and synthetic fertilizers.

GOTS vs. Organic Content Standard (OCS):

• GOTS includes processing and social criteria, while OCS focuses solely on verifying organic content.

GOTS vs. USDA Organic:

• GOTS applies to textiles, ensuring organic and sustainable practices throughout the supply chain, while USDA Organic primarily applies to food and agricultural products.

Lesser-Known Textile Certifications

• Fair Wear Foundation (FWF): Ensures fair labor conditions in the garment industry.
• Cradle to Cradle Certified™: Promotes products that are safe, circular, and responsibly made.
• bluesign®: Ensures environmentally friendly and safe production processes.
• Fair Trade Certified™: Supports sustainable livelihoods for farmers and workers.
• SA8000® Standard: Promotes socially acceptable practices in workplaces.
• Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): Ensures the welfare of sheep and the land they graze on.
• Global Recycled Standard (GRS): Verifies recycled content in products.

Final Thoughts

GOTS is a comprehensive and stringent certification that ensures textiles are produced in an environmentally sustainable and socially responsible manner. By choosing GOTS-certified products, consumers can support ethical brands, promote fair labor practices, and contribute to a healthier planet.

The GOTS Standard The Standard – GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard (global-standard.org)

GOTS Hop Finder GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard (global-standard.org)

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